Homeowners call me for repipes when the leaks and pinholes finally wear them down. They’ve patched ceilings, repainted walls, and still the stains bloom again. That’s when the big decision lands on the table: do we replace the pipes inside the house with new copper or PEX and be done with it, or is there something else lurking underground that this work won’t touch? The answer depends on whether we’re talking about the water line or the sewer line, and what “repipe” actually includes in real-world practice.
I’ve opened more walls than I can count, crawled under houses on sticky August afternoons, and fed cameras into lines that smelled like trouble from the driveway. The core confusion I see, even among savvy homeowners, is that a repipe addresses pressurized supply piping inside the structure, while sewer and main water service lines usually live in a different scope, budget, and permit category. Lumping them together can get expensive fast or leave critical issues unresolved. Let’s untangle it with practical detail and a few stories from the field.
Two different networks running through the same home
A home’s plumbing has two major networks that behave very differently. The water supply is a pressurized system. Your city sends water, or your well pump delivers it, at 40 to 80 psi in most homes. That pressure is why a pinhole leak can spray like a garden hose and why a repipe often feels urgent. Inside, those supply lines branch through walls, ceilings, and crawlspaces to feed fixtures. When we say Repipe Plumbing, we mean replacing that set of interior pressurized pipes, fittings, and stub-outs, commonly using PEX, copper, or CPVC, and sometimes pairing it with new shutoff valves and a pressure regulator.
The drainage system is unpressurized and sloped by gravity. Wastewater flows through larger-diameter drain and vent pipes that eventually exit the building and tie into a municipal sewer or a septic system. That outside run, from the foundation to the street or tank, is your main sewer line. It’s a different animal: pipe materials, failure modes, and repair strategies are nothing like supply piping. Most repipe proposals do not include any sewer line replacement. That falls under drain and sewer work, sometimes trenchless methods like pipe bursting or cured-in-place lining, and it requires camera inspections to diagnose properly.
Lastly, there is the main water service line, the buried pipe that brings water from the meter or well to the house. It is pressurized, yes, but it sits outside the building envelope, usually under soil, concrete, or landscaping. Standard repipe packages often stop at the main shutoff or the foundation penetration. The service line is a separate line item with its own excavation or trenchless plan.
What a typical whole-home repipe covers
I’m careful with the word “typical” because every contractor writes scope differently and local codes push details one way or another. In most markets, a whole-home repipe covers the interior pressurized distribution. That means new hot and cold runs to fixtures, new branch lines in walls, new angle stops and supply connectors, and fresh risers to showers, tubs, sinks, and toilets. In older homes we often cap or remove abandoned galvanized. The water heater connections are usually brought up to code; if a heater is near end of life, many clients replace it during repipe because the walls are open and the labor stacks efficiently.
On valve work, I favor installing a new main shutoff if the old one is crusty or frozen, and a pressure-reducing valve if the house sees pressure above 75 psi. If you have a recirculation loop, that may be reconnected or replaced depending on the condition. In multi-story homes, we add hammer arrestors at critical points to curb banging when fixtures close fast. These upgrades are common sense during a repipe because they prevent callbacks and protect your investment.
The repipe scope usually does not include drain and vent replacement. We touch those only if we find obvious failures while walls are open, and even then I write a separate change order. It also typically does not include the exterior water service from the meter to the house. That outside line demands its own materials and tooling. You may need utility locates, a separate permit, traffic control on busy streets, and restoration for landscaping or concrete. Bundling it with a repipe can make sense, but it must be clearly distinguished in the contract.
The main sewer line is a different project
Sewer failures don’t look like water leaks. They show up as slow drains across multiple fixtures, gurgling in a tub when the washing machine discharges, soggy patches with a foul smell in the yard, or wastewater backing up at the lowest drain in the house. Older clay or cast iron lines can crack, separate at joints, or get invaded by tree roots. Modern PVC can still belly from soil settlement or get crushed by heavy vehicles.
When I suspect sewer trouble, I recommend a camera inspection before any big interior work. It costs a few hundred dollars and can save thousands by setting priorities. I’ve had clients who wanted to spend on a full repipe because of chronic backups, only for the camera to reveal a collapsed clay section 18 feet from the foundation. Replacing pipes inside the house would not have solved a thing, and the frustration would have been justified.
If a sewer line is bad, repair options depend on access, length of failure, and soil conditions. Open trench replacement is sometimes straightforward for short runs with easy access. Trenchless solutions like cured-in-place pipe can rehabilitate longer sections with less disturbance, if the pipe is a good candidate and the local jurisdiction approves. Neither of these sits inside a standard repipe package. They need separate proposals, permits, and scheduling.
The outside water service line sits in between
While the sewer deals with waste by gravity, the water service line brings pressurized water in from the street or well. Failures here show as wet spots or sinkholes near the path of the line, constantly running water at the meter with fixtures off, or a hissing you can hear at the foundation. In some neighborhoods, aging galvanized or polybutylene is still under the lawn and should be replaced sooner rather than later. Copper can last several decades, but soil chemistry and stray current from nearby utilities can shorten its life.
Replacing a service line usually involves trenching from the meter to the foundation or using a pull method to install new PEX, copper, or HDPE. I choose the Repipe Plumbing Central Point material based on local codes and soil conditions. In rocky soil or where rodents can be a problem, copper or sleeved PEX may make sense. Some cities require copper up to a certain point. The job may also involve moving or upgrading the main shutoff and pressure regulator, which we can coordinate with an interior repipe to avoid duplicated labor.
Again, this is not automatically included in a repipe. It may be offered as an option. If your water pressure is low, your meter spins with everything off, or the service line is older than 40 years with known failure history in the area, put it on the agenda during your planning meeting.
How to read a repipe proposal without getting burned
A good proposal reads like a roadmap, not a mystery novel. Pay attention to limits and landmarks. When I write scope, I spell out start and stop points: from the main shutoff inside the garage to each fixture stub-out, including new angle stops and flexible connectors; includes water heater supply lines and thermal expansion device; excludes drain, waste, and vent piping; excludes exterior water service from meter to house; excludes exterior sewer beyond the foundation. That line about excluding drains and exterior lines is not a dodge, it is clarity. Those are different jobs, and your budget should reflect that.
Ask for the materials by name and size. Copper type L, PEX-A or PEX-B, and whether the system will be home-run with a manifold or use trunk-and-branch layout. Both can work, and the decision depends on the home’s layout, attic or crawlspace access, and how much you value individual fixture shutoffs at the manifold. If you are sensitive to wait time for hot water, a home-run system can reduce momentum loss in long branches. If the home is compact, trunk-and-branch is often more efficient and less expensive.
Confirm wall and ceiling patching. Many contractors will open and close, but they will not finish to paint-ready. Some will bring in a painter, others leave it to the homeowner. I am candid about it because expectations on finish work cause more hard feelings than any other part of a repipe.
Clarify fixture count and specialty items. Standard toilets, sinks, and showers fall inside scope. Body sprays, steam units, and complicated tub fillers may require extra work. We measure and plan accordingly.
Finally, check whether permits and inspections are included. In most jurisdictions, a whole-home repipe requires a plumbing permit and a pressure test witnessed by an inspector. It protects you and the contractor. If a proposal avoids permits, be cautious.
Symptoms that point to repipe versus sewer or service line work
I keep a mental decision tree. You can use it at home, and it keeps you from chasing the wrong problem.
If you see wet drywall, attic insulation that feels damp, or puddles under a sink cabinet with no drain leaks in sight, suspect pressurized supply issues inside the home. Brown spots on ceilings that darken after someone showers or uses a sink also point to supply lines or valve connections.
If drains across the house run slow, you hear gurgling in one fixture when you use another, or backups show up at the lowest drain, look at the main sewer. A single slow sink could be a trap clogged with hair, but multiple fixtures across rooms tying into the same branch strongly suggest a bigger drain issue.
If your water bill jumps and you hear water movement even when no fixtures are on, the main service line could be leaking in the yard or under the slab near the foundation entry. Sometimes the meter shows a small flow with everything off. That is a giveaway.
Of course, homes can have more than one problem at once. I’ve walked into houses with pinholed copper in the attic and a root-packed clay sewer in the yard. In those cases we prioritize by risk. Active leaks that threaten finishes and structural elements take first place. Chronic sewer backups that risk contamination come a close second. Low-grade inefficiencies wait their turn.
Materials and methods that matter once walls are open
With Repipe Plumbing, material choice matters less than craftsmanship, but it still matters. I grew up on copper and still love it for its rigidity and proven longevity. Type L costs more and can transmit more heat, so insulate hot lines, especially in attics. PEX has earned its place. It is quicker to install, handles expansion and contraction better in temperature swings, and tends to dampen water hammer. If you live in a freeze-prone area, interior PEX runs give you some grace, though you still need insulation and good routing.
Fittings and transitions deserve attention. Brass drop-ear 90s for shower heads and tub spouts, full-port ball valves for shutoffs, and quality crimp or expansion rings make future service easier and reduce risk. Avoid burying compression fittings in walls. If we find polybutylene or mixed-metal connections, we carefully plan transitions to stop galvanic corrosion. Dielectric unions at water heaters are not optional. Small details prevent big headaches years later.
Routing choices can reduce wall cuts. In single-story homes with accessible attics or crawlspaces, we can run long stretches with minimal disruption. In two-story homes with finished ceilings and no attic, strategic chases and closets are gold. I once used a linen closet to drop three runs to a lower bathroom and laundry room without touching the living room ceiling. That kind of planning saves money and dust.
Times when a repipe won’t fix your problem
I’ve had calls from owners convinced a repipe would cure their low water pressure. We tested and found the city service at 40 psi with a half-block of old galvanized service feeding the house. The interior copper was fine. Replacing it would have improved nothing. We replaced the service line with 1-inch HDPE, set a new pressure regulator, and suddenly the showers felt like showers again.
Another household saw back-to-back kitchen and laundry backups. They had just spent on a repipe and felt burned. The camera found a belly in the sewer near a big oak. The repipe contractor hadn’t misled them, but the homeowner expected miracles. Sewer problems demand sewer solutions, and sometimes that involves cutting roots every year until you budget for a more permanent trenchless fix or a dig-and-replace.
I’ve also seen slab leak cases where owners preferred to abandon the leaking copper in the slab and repipe overhead rather than open floors. That is a smart move in many homes, but only if the slab leak is truly on the pressure side. If the leak is in a drain under the slab, overhead repipe won’t touch it. A camera inspection and sometimes a smoke test answers the question.
Coordinating repipe, sewer, and service line work without chaos
When a house needs multiple projects, sequencing matters. Repiping stirs dust and opens walls, but it is controlled. Sewer replacement can turn the yard into a jobsite and may temporarily restrict toilet use. The water service upgrade may require shutting water off for part of a day. With good planning, you can keep the household functioning.
I prefer this order when issues overlap. First, stabilize any active leaks on the supply side so you stop water damage. Second, handle sewer repairs if backups are frequent, because losing toilets and showers is more disruptive than living with low pressure for a week. Third, perform the repipe once the outside work is done or at least scheduled, so that shutoffs and pressure regulation are correctly coordinated. If you plan a new water heater or softener, align those installs with repipe to avoid rework.
Communication is everything. If the home has tenants, children, or remote workers, I build a three-day calendar with clear expectations for water shutoffs and noisy work. We plan one bathroom at a time if possible and set up temporary kitchen connections. Your contractor should brief you on dust control, floor protection, and how they will seal off areas to keep pets contained.
What affects cost, and where you can save without regret
Ballpark numbers vary by region, house size, and material. In many markets, a whole-home repipe for a typical 2-bath, 1,600 to 2,200 square foot house ranges from the low five figures to the mid teens, depending on access and finishes. Sewer line replacement can range widely, from a few thousand for a short open trench fix to much more for long runs, deep burial, or trenchless lining with reinstatement of branch connections. A new water service line might run into the low thousands depending on length, surface restoration, and meter location.
You can save by bundling logical tasks. If you are opening walls for a repipe, add that new shower valve you’ve wanted or relocate the laundry shutoffs to a more convenient height. The incremental labor is small when we are already there. On the flip side, don’t skimp on valves, pressure regulation, or insulation. Those are safety and performance. Also resist the urge to reuse crusty angle stops. They are inexpensive and notorious for failing the week after a project ends.
Finish work can tip budgets. If your home has extensive tile, fine plaster, or custom paneling, plan for careful removal and reinstallation or alternative routing to minimize cuts. Sometimes running a chase through a closet avoids opening a tiled shower wall. That trade rarely shows up in a generic quote, but experienced crews look for those opportunities because they reduce risk and keep clients happy.
Warranty and long-term maintenance
A respectable repipe comes with a workmanship warranty, often one to ten years, and the pipe manufacturer may offer longer material warranties. Read the fine print. Some warranties require documented pressure below a certain threshold, which means you must maintain the pressure regulator. If you install a water softener or filtration system later, be sure it is sized correctly to avoid starving fixtures and causing people to blame the repipe for low flow.
Sewer repairs carry their own warranties, usually shorter, because soil movement and roots can change conditions. I advise annual or biennial camera checks for older lines that were partially repaired while you budget for full replacement. For water service lines, a pressure test during installation and a final inspection provide baseline assurance.
Simple habits extend the life of your new system. Keep the pressure between 55 and 65 psi if you can. Exercise shutoff valves once or twice a year so they don’t freeze in place. Don’t hang storage off exposed pipe in garages or crawlspaces. Insulate attic lines in hot and cold climates. Small things, big dividends.
A brief field story that ties it together
A family in a 1970s ranch called with recurring ceiling stains in the hallway and a guest bath that burped when the washing machine ran. During the walkthrough, the meter was spinning with fixtures off, a classic sign of a service leak, and the attic copper showed green crust at several joints. We performed a pressure test and found it dropped fast. A quick camera run revealed moderate root intrusion in the clay sewer near the curb but no collapse.
We set priorities. First, we installed a new water service line with HDPE in a single day and a new pressure regulator. The meter stopped spinning. Second, we performed a PEX repipe in two days, rerouting overhead and abandoning the old copper in the slab. We replaced the water heater flexes and added arrestors at the laundry. Third, we scheduled a trenchless sewer lining for the 22-foot section with roots. Throughout, we kept one bathroom live and warned ahead of each shutoff. The homeowner spent money in three chunks rather than one shock, but each step solved a real problem. Six months later they reported quiet pipes, hot water at the kitchen in half the time, and no gurgling when the washer drained.
The key was not assuming a repipe would cure sewer symptoms or that a sewer fix would stop ceiling stains. Right diagnosis, right scope, right order.
Where Repipe Plumbing ends, and what to plan next
If you remember nothing else, remember this. A repipe tackles the pressurized supply lines inside your home. It generally includes new interior hot and cold runs, shutoffs, and connections at fixtures, often with updates at the water heater and the main valve. It generally does not include the exterior water service from the meter to the house or the main sewer line from the house to the street or septic. Those are separate projects with their own inspections, materials, and methods.
Before you sign, ask your contractor to map your system, identify the start and end points of their work, and recommend inspections for the parts they are not touching. If your house is older than a few decades, consider budgeting in phases: first the repipe to stop interior damage and improve reliability, then the sewer rehabilitation, then the water service upgrade if your pressure and bills suggest trouble.
Do it in that thoughtful order, and your home’s plumbing will work quietly in the background, which is how it should be. You’ll turn a chronic frustration into a set of planned improvements that add value and peace of mind. And if you decide to move down the road, a clean invoice that spells out your Repipe Plumbing scope, plus documented sewer and service line inspections, becomes a selling point that carries real weight with buyers and inspectors.
Business Name: Principled Plumbing LLC Address: Oregon City, OR 97045 About Business: Principled Plumbing: Honest Plumbing Done Right, Since 2024 Serving Clackamas, Multnomah, Washington, Marion, and Yamhill counties since 2024, Principled Plumbing installs and repairs water heaters (tank & tankless), fixes pipes/leaks/drains (including trenchless sewer), and installs fixtures/appliances. We support remodels, new construction, sump pumps, and filtration systems. Emergency plumbing available—fast, honest, and code-compliant. Trust us for upfront pricing and expert plumbing service every time! Website: https://principledplumbing.com/ Phone: (503) 919-7243